Phan's Garden

There’s an art, or perhaps etiquette, to eating tacos (nobody tells you that until the filling is falling out of your tortilla down onto your sandaled foot!). The well-seasoned, griddled chicken is so generously piled on by the cooking masters at Taco Loco (inside the El Rey markets) that you need to double-hand the taco, in a so steamy corn envelope, and lean over your plate, letting the juices dribble down your hands. But wonderful? Si!

Traffic moves at an antelope’s pace on National Avenue, so it’s easy to unknowingly whiz by El Comedor. Advice: Keep your eyes peeled for a corner building with a bright-red threshold, then head inside and place your order immediately for crispy, succulent shreds of pork (a.k.a., al pastor). The meat is sweetened with tiny chunks of pineapple. Ask for cilantro and onion on top, and be liberal with the fresh lime! Look for El Comedor taco truck on South 13th and Hayes.

El Cabrito – whose name translates to “little goat” – is marinated and slow-roasted (leg, sometimes), which lends a succulent texture and flavor similar to lamb. Keen palates will detect cinnamon, cumin, even lemon peel. Like other meats, it needs only cilantro and onion on top, but don’t be shy with the chunky red salsa! And corn tortillas are best.

Sit at a table pushed up against the old wooden bar at Guadalajara. It’s old Milwaukee (the building dates to 1890) meets the modern wave of immigration. The steak is lean, on the juicy side, and with the spread of toppings, the tacos looks like little queso-capped mountain peaks. Don’t forget the house pico de gallo! This boffo fresh salsa of cabbage, radish and bell peppers offers that all-important crunch.