The Walker??s Point resto that inhabited an old German bar long before the area??s renaissance. Owner/chef Peggy Magister has a rapt audience that finds nothing crazy about her menu of chorizo-stuffed dates, parsley-crusted halibut, and soy-braised short ribs.)
One late spring weekend, as the days were getting longer, the Gonzalez family debuted their delicacies made inside a shiny 1950s trailer, calling their business Mazorca Tacos. Their tasty bistec has three tasty going for it – the Wisconsin beer marinade, tender bean topping and delicious corn tortilla right there. Served with a zesty tomatillo salsa? Natch.
Vertical is the direction in which a burger moves. This Fifth Ward force takes the notion of layers well beyond the prosaic. It’s a little like Joan Rivers’ face. More, apparently, is better. But a few qualities stand out here – the ability to build your own burger from oodles of ingredients, and the Stack’d options for gluten-avoiders and vegetarians.
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Sit at a table pushed up against the old wooden bar at Guadalajara. It’s old Milwaukee (the building dates to 1890) meets the modern wave of immigration. The steak is lean, on the juicy side, and with the spread of toppings, the tacos looks like little queso-capped mountain peaks. Don’t forget the house pico de gallo! This boffo fresh salsa of cabbage, radish and bell peppers offers that all-important crunch.
Traffic moves at an antelope’s pace on National Avenue, so it’s easy to unknowingly whiz by El Comedor. Advice: Keep your eyes peeled for a corner building with a bright-red threshold, then head inside and place your order immediately for crispy, succulent shreds of pork (a.k.a., al pastor). The meat is sweetened with tiny chunks of pineapple. Ask for cilantro and onion on top, and be liberal with the fresh lime! Look for El Comedor taco truck on South 13th and Hayes.
El Cabrito – whose name translates to “little goat” – is marinated and slow-roasted (leg, sometimes), which lends a succulent texture and flavor similar to lamb. Keen palates will detect cinnamon, cumin, even lemon peel. Like other meats, it needs only cilantro and onion on top, but don’t be shy with the chunky red salsa! And corn tortillas are best.