Photo of brandade, Umami Moto



Altered State

Umami Moto’s reopening today is a mixed blessing. Justin Carlisle returns to the kitchen, after a short break during which the owners made interior changes including building a sushi bar. Many of executive chef Justin Carlisle’s previous menu items are gone – such as the brandade shown above. “Old favorites,” as SURG co-owner Omar Shaikh calls them, have replaced much of what Carlisle created since he arrived in 2011. One returning plate: miso bass with bamboo rice, yuzu, fennel and Chinese mustard. With the new sushi bar comes a large list of nigiri/sushi, sushi plates and rolls. Does change mean improvement? The perennial question. Tues-Sat from 5 p.m.; Sun from 4 p.m. (718 N. Milwaukee St., 414-727-9333).

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